Gabriel Cocos
Pentru a afla mai multe despre echipa stelara, vizitati starteam.

How to transforme Claude into the ultimate coding tutor that tracks your progress

  • Posted 05 May 2026
  • By Gabriel Cocos
  • 0
  • 60
If you’ve tried using Claude to learn to code and walked away feeling like you just witnessed a magic trick rather than actually learned something, you’re not alone. Without structure, AI coding tools default to doing the work for you—you end up with hundreds of lines of code without understanding the algorithm or the logic behind it.

That said, after much trial and error, I’ve finally perfected a prompt that turns Claude into an exercise-driven tutor. It focuses on teaching concepts by making you work through the code, while also remembering your progress and difficulties to refine future sessions. Best of all, it only takes two minutes to set up.

It’s not exactly news that you can use an LLM as a tutor. Being able to ask questions in natural language and get a relevant, contextual answer is a genuine game changer for self-learners. The experience is fundamentally different from—and often better than—Googling something. With search, you had to frame everything as keywords and hope someone had already written about your specific problem in a way that made sense. With an LLM, you just ask, and it explains the concept in a way you can actually relate to.

From chatbots to neural networks — find out how much you really know about AI.

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That said, almost any LLM can help you learn web design. What makes Claude particularly useful is its Artifacts feature—that and the fact that it’s the best LLM for coding I’ve tested. In Claude’s web or desktop app, it generates code and renders it live in a panel right next to the chat. So when you’re learning something, you’re not switching between a code editor, a browser, and a chat window—it all happens in one place.

On top of that, Claude has Projects—a unified space for related chats. You can create something like “Learning Web Design,” and all your sessions live there. But it’s more than just organization. Claude builds a memory from the conversations within that project, synthesizing what you’ve covered, where you’re making progress, and where you keep getting stuck. So when you open a new chat inside that project, Claude already has context on your learning and can tailor its help accordingly.

How to do your coding exercises

Escaping the spectator trap

One of the biggest risks with AI coding tools is slipping into spectator mode—the AI writes everything, you watch it happen, it looks great, but you don’t actually retain anything. This system is designed to prevent that.

It does this through an exercise mode built into the tutoring prompt. Instead of just explaining concepts and writing code for you, Claude gives you a block of code and challenges you to modify it to achieve a specific result. You copy the code from the Artifact, paste it into VS Code—or your IDE of choice—make the changes yourself, and then paste your version back into the chat. Claude then evaluates what you wrote and tells you whether your logic and syntax are correct.

What makes this effective is that Claude is prompted to be deliberately stubborn. It will answer clarifying questions if you’re stuck, but it won’t move on to the next topic until you’ve submitted a correct solution. You can’t just skip ahead.

Building the system and how it works

It’ll barely take 2 minutes

Setup takes about two minutes. Open Claude, create a new Project, and paste this prompt into the Project instructions:


# Role
You are a hands-on coding tutor for a student learning to program. This Project will span many sessions. Your job is to move them from zero to comfortable writing real code — not to build things for them.
# Scope — what this workflow covers
You teach anything Claude can execute or render live, because the tight "see it run" feedback loop is what makes this setup work. That gives you a genuinely useful curriculum:
**Core curriculum (rendered as HTML or React Artifacts):**
- HTML structure
- CSS fundamentals and layout (Flexbox, Grid)
- JavaScript (variables, functions, events, DOM manipulation)
- React components (Hooks, props, state; `recharts`, `lucide-react`, and `shadcn/ui` are available in the Artifacts React runtime)
**Optional track (rendered via the Analysis tool):**
- Python for data visualization — matplotlib, pandas, seaborn, numpy, plotly. The student sees charts render directly in the chat.
**Optional side-trips:**
- SVG for vector graphics fundamentals
- Anything else Claude can render live that supports a teaching goal
**Teaching aid — not a curriculum of its own:**
- Mermaid diagrams. Use these liberally to visualize things that are hard to picture from code alone: control flow in a loop, the shape of a data structure, the steps of an algorithm, the component tree of a React app, the request/response cycle of a web page. Pulling up a Mermaid diagram alongside code often makes an abstract concept click instantly.
**Out of scope:**
Languages or setups where Claude can't run the code live (most back-end and systems languages — Ruby, PHP, Go, Java, C++, full-stack Node.js; anything needing a database, server, mobile toolchain, or packages beyond what Claude's sandboxes bundle). If the student asks for these, pause and say: "Claude can't execute this live, so you'd lose the instant feedback that makes this workflow effective. I can still tutor you, but we'd be relying entirely on your local environment — slower loop, more window-switching. Want to proceed anyway, or stick with what runs live?" Honor their choice.
# At the start of every session
Check the Project's knowledge base for session summaries (usually labeled "Day 1", "Day 2", etc.). If one exists, read the most recent one first and calibrate:
- Continue from the concept after the last one that clicked
- Revisit anything flagged "still confusing" or "needs work"
- Don't re-teach what's already solid
If no summary exists, ask what they want to learn. If they're unsure, offer a default path — usually: HTML → CSS → CSS layout → JavaScript → DOM → React. If they're more interested in data, suggest starting with Python and matplotlib instead. They can jump around — just briefly note what prerequisites you're assuming before moving sideways.
# How you teach
**Run it live.** Whenever you introduce a concept, create or update an Artifact (for HTML/CSS/JS or React) or use the Analysis tool (for Python) so the student sees output next to the code.
**Reach for Mermaid when words aren't enough.** If the student is wrestling with how a `for` loop flows, what `useState` actually does, or what a binary tree looks like, sketch it as a Mermaid diagram before showing more code. Visual intuition first, syntax second.
**Comment every meaningful line.** Explain what each line does in an inline comment. Students learn as much from the comments as from the result.

“`html
<!– The <p> tag creates a paragraph block –>
<p>Hello world.</p>
“`

**Explain the why, not just the what.** When introducing `display: flex` or `useState` or a pandas DataFrame, explain what problem it solves and what the alternative was. Concepts stick when students understand the motivation.

# Tutorial mode — the core practice loop

This is the most important part. Never just write the full solution for the student. The biggest risk with AI coding help is spectator mode — watching code appear and retaining nothing. Prevent it by running every concept through this loop:

1. Introduce the concept and show a small example (Artifact for web, Analysis tool for Python).
2. Give the student a specific challenge: modify the code to achieve a concrete result (e.g., “change the paragraph’s color to navy with 16px of padding” or “add a button that increments a counter” or “change the bar chart to a line chart and filter to only 2024 data”).
3. Tell them to copy the code into VS Code, make the change locally, then paste their version back into chat.
4. When they paste it back, review their logic and syntax. Tell them specifically what’s right, what’s wrong, and why.
5. Do not move to the next concept until they’ve submitted a working solution. Be warm but firm about this.

If they’re stuck, answer clarifying questions, offer progressively bigger hints, even show one line — but never write the full answer and move on. They have to be the one who finishes the code.

If they say “just show me” or “skip this,” redirect gently: “The whole point of this setup is that you write the code. I’ll give you hints as big as you need — what specifically is tripping you up?”

# Local preview setup
The first time the student is ready to run code outside Claude’s sandbox, generate an Artifact walking them through how to do it locally:
– **HTML/CSS/JS:** save `.html` files, open in a browser, or use VS Code’s Live Server extension.
– **React:** a quick intro to Vite (`npm create vite@latest`) so they can run a real dev server with hot reload.
– **Python:** installing Python, setting up a virtual environment, and running scripts from the terminal or in a Jupyter notebook via VS Code.

This bridges them from tutor-assisted learning toward working like a real developer.

# Ending a session

When the student says something like “wrap up,” “end session,” or “done for today,” generate a session summary Artifact with this exact structure:

# Session Summary — [Date]

## Concepts covered
– [bullet list]
## What clicked
– [things they showed solid understanding of]
## Sticking points
– [where they got stuck or asked repeated clarifying questions]
## Still needs work
– [concepts to revisit next time]
## Suggested next session
– [what to tackle next, given where they are]

After producing it, remind them: “Save this to the Project’s knowledge base using the **Add Content** button and label it by day (e.g., ‘Day 3’). I’ll read it at the start of our next session so we don’t lose our place.”

# Tone
Encouraging but honest. Celebrate real understanding. Flag confusion instead of papering over it. Treat the student as a capable adult choosing to learn something new — not as someone fragile. When they make a mistake, say so clearly and explain the correction.

[mai mult...]

How to handle config files, this is a much easier way then writing JSON by hand

  • Posted 05 May 2026
  • By Gabriel Cocos
  • -1
  • 35

JSON is a hugely popular format, used for configuration, API responses, game save data, and much more. But it has its critics, and JSON is not the only option. YAML is actually older than JSON, but even though it hasn’t caught on to quite the same extent, it has plenty to offer.

YAML can be tricky to get a hold of at first; after all, its name has changed meaning over time, from Yet Another Markup Language to YAML Ain’t Markup Language.

To understand YAML, it’s useful to explore what a markup language is. In short, a markup language combines a document written in plain text with annotations that describe various parts of that text. HTML is the best-known example, a language that supports online publication, adding links, embedded images, and structure to web pages.

Other common markup languages include XML and SGML; these are strongly associated with HTML, although they have different scopes and uses. There’s also Markdown, a very popular format that, despite its name, is also a markup language.

YAML is not really a markup language, though, as its acronym change reflects. YAML describes itself as a data serialization language, which really just means it’s a syntax for storing data. Think of YAML as less like HTML with data and more like JSON improved.

YAML dates back as far as 2001, but its first full release was in 2004. It’s been revised a handful of times since, with the latest version landing in 2021. Its files typically use one of two extensions: .yml or .yaml.

Choose from three different Intel processors when you configure this mini PC, along with your choice of dozens of Linux distribution options.

How is YAML different from JSON?

A bit like JSON with the rough edges sanded down

JSON is YAML’s closest well-known alternative. In fact, YAML is a superset of JSON, so any JSON file is also a valid YAML file. A simple YAML document looks much like JSON:

name:
    first: Jane
    last: Doe
age: 28
role: Engineer

The JSON equivalent of the above is:

{
    "name":
    {
        "first": "Jane",
        "last": "Doe"
    },
    "age": 28,
    "role": "Engineer"
}

At this level, YAML really isn’t that much different, although it’s definitely a bit nicer to read and write—for humans, at least. The language removes all those quotes, brackets, and commas in favor of a structure implied by line breaks and indentation.

YAML indentation is important, and it must consist only of space characters, not tabs. If you set your editor’s tab width to a large value for YAML files, you’ll quickly spot any invalid indents.

YAML uses some constructs that are familiar from Markdown, like a set of rows, each beginning with a hyphen to represent a list:

fruits:
    - Apple
    - Banana
    - Cherry

You can easily combine the syntax for dictionaries (maps) and lists, in whatever hierarchy you need:

YAML also supports multi-line strings, which many JSON users will welcome. The first form, the literal block, preserves line breaks. It’s useful when they convey meaning:

address: |
  1600 Pennsylvania Avenue NW
  Washington, D.C.
  20500

The other type is called a folded block, and it treats line breaks as spaces:

info: >
  Folding allows long lines to be broken
  anywhere a single space character
  separates two non-space characters.

The folded type lets you lay out paragraphs however you want, much the same way that Markdown and HTML do.

Amusingly, the official YAML website presents itself in YAML syntax:

Although it’s clever, it demonstrates that YAML is better at representing data than it is at structuring the contents of web pages!

YAML is often used for configuration files, especially by more modern programs. For example, searching my user config directory for YAML files gives me the following:

Apart from gh, the GitHub command-line client, these are all TUI apps with a modern approach to configuration that differs from more traditional approaches like INI files, scripts, or bespoke formats.

The gh config file demonstrates an excellent use of YAML:

This config file has sensible defaults, blank values acting as templates, and comments to explain each setting. This is a marked improvement on JSON, which does not directly support comments—unless you’re using JSONC.

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DevOps tools like Docker and Kubernetes have adopted YAML, at least partly for its ease of readability. The former’s Compose file and the latter’s object spec files both use YAML.

Meanwhile, the yq tool does for YAML what jq does for JSON: it lets you process a YAML file, extracting data from it or updating it.

You can use yq to convert JSON to YAML:

yq -P -oy file.json

You can edit data with it, like this example, which finds an item in an array, then changes it:

yq '(.[] | select(.name == "foo") | .address) = "12 cat st"'

YAML isn’t always a better choice than JSON, which has better interoperability as the more established format. But YAML’s advantages are quite significant, so it’s no surprise that, for configuration and related tasks, it’s often preferred.

[mai mult...]

How to fix your streaming subtitles if they are too small

  • Posted 02 April 2026
  • By Gabriel Cocos
  • -1
  • 82

Before getting into specific streaming services and apps, it might be best to point out that while most make subtitle customization fairly painless, once you know where to look, the paths to them vary more than they should.

As a general rule, if subtitles are something you know you want to have consistently on across all your streaming apps, all the major devices have system-level subtitle and captioning settings that you can set and that sometimes override in-app defaults across all your streaming apps at once.

With all of them, you can customize things like fonts, font size, font color, background color, opacity, edged style, highlights, and more. You can also create new styles and save them as presets.

For Apple TV: On the Apple TV device, go to Settings > Accessibility > Subtitles and Captioning > Style. Here you’ll be able to adjust all kinds of subtitle formatting options.

For Fire TV: Open the Settings menu and choose Accessibility > Closed Caption, where you’ll find menu items for text, text background, and more.

For Roku: From the Settings menu, select Accessibility > Captions style for a wide range of options.

For Android TV: From the Settings menu, navigate to Device Preferences > Accessibility > Captions.

For Google TV: From the Home Screen, select Settings > Accessibility > Caption preferences > Caption size and style.

Be aware that some apps like Netflix have their own subtitle settings that are unaffected by this, while others rely on these system-level settings.

Netflix

Profile-based settings that sync across all your devices

As mentioned above, Netflix takes care of its own subtitle preferences, which are tied to your account profile, and can be adjusted differently for each. The best way to make these changes is through a web browser, which will sync across the Netflix apps on all your devices.

  1. At Netflix.com, log in to your account and select your profile.
  2. From the dropdown menu, select Account > Profiles > and then the profile you want to change.
  3. Under Subtitle Appearance, you’ll find a range of great modifications you can make—from text size, font, and text color to adding drop shadowing and background colors to make text stand out over busy images.
  4. Make the changes you want, which you’ll be able to preview before hitting save.
  5. You can always choose Restore to Default if you want to start again or walk away.
  6. The changes will take effect across your profile on all your signed-in devices.

On smart TVs or streaming devices like Apple TV, Fire TV Stick, or Roku, depending on your app’s version, you may also be able to access these settings by pausing a video you’re watching, and choosing the gear icon.

Prime Video

Save presets that you can switch between during playback

Amazon Prime Video offers one of the more flexible subtitle systems, allowing you to save multiple style presets and switch between them during playback, often across several devices. Like Netflix, though, one of the best ways to adjust and personalize them is on the web.

  1. In a web browser, while a video is playing, you can click or tap the Subtitles & Audio icon (speech bubble) in the upper-right corner of the player.
  2. Select Subtitles Settings from the menu.
  3. Here you can adjust font size and choose from four presets.

To build and manage those presets so you can access them on the other devices and apps that allow it, though, the best way to adjust is on the web. Log in to primevideo.com and through your profile, go to Account & Settings > Subtitles, where you can edit up to four saved presets.

HBO Max

Different options depending on how you’re watching

Adjusting subtitle settings on HBO Max (beyond just turning them on and off, etc.) varies depending on how you’re watching.

On the web: At hbomax.com, click your profile, then go to Settings > Subtitle Style to adjust font, color, size, and opacity.

On TV and mobile devices: Select the Audio and Subtitles icon during playback for basic styling. For size controls and more, this is handled at the device level (see the top of this post).

Disney+

Access subtitle options from various points

Disney+ has several different ways to adjust subtitle formatting depending on how you’re watching.

On mobile devices that run iOS and Android, they’re accessed through the system’s Settings > Accessibility menus.

On smart TVs, you can access it while watching a video. Press pause and then select the Audio & Subtitles menu that appears at the top right. Then select the Subtitle Styling option.

Apple TV and Fire TV also use their system-level preferences that can be accessed through their Settings > Accessibility and captioning options.

If you watch Disney+ through a web browser, you can access them by pausing a video and selecting Audio & Subtitles in the top right corner. A Gear icon will appear, which will lead to the Subtitle Styling settings. Make your style adjustments and click the back arrow to continue watching.

[mai mult...]

How to turn Chrome’s address bar into a notepad with one line of text

  • Posted 02 April 2026
  • By Gabriel Cocos
  • 0
  • 88
This “hack” is super simple. All you have to do is open Google Chrome and type or copy the following into the address bar:

data:text/html, <html contenteditable> That’s pretty much it. Now you can use that page as a no-frills word processor. It’s handy to have it when you want to write notes while working, take a phone call, or, in my case, jot down ideas and thoughts while writing.

The best thing about this DIY notepad is that it works in most modern browsers. I’ve tested it in Chrome, Firefox, and Edge, but it should work in pretty much every browser you might be using, no matter how obscure it is. You aren’t limited to desktop browsers either. I tried taking notes in the Android versions of Chrome and DuckDuckGo, and I managed to turn them into notepads just by copying the command into their address bar and opening the page.

So why would anyone use this? Well, as I’ve said, it can be handy to have a barebones note-taking page in your browser for times when you want to quickly jot something down without having to open your preferred note-taking app or click through multiple menus to access an online notepad.

You can bookmark the page and open it in a second when you’re working and want to write down something your coworker or boss said, or jot down a quick note or two during a phone or video call. When you’re in an online meeting and get a great idea but have to wait for your turn to speak, you can immediately write it down instead of opening a separate app.

I occasionally use this browser-based notepad when working on an article or doing research. It’s great for capturing fleeting thoughts I might otherwise forget, jotting down subheading ideas, pasting useful links, or using it as a temporary note-taking space I can simply close and forget about once I’m done.

This browser notepad works great as a dead-simple note-taking app, but the fact that it’s just a tiny code snippet also means you shouldn’t expect a slew of features. You can’t adjust the font size, spacing, margins, or any of that fancy stuff. Your notes also won’t be saved automatically when you close the browser or reload the page. The only way to save them is by saving the entire page using the “Save page as…” option.

You get the default font, can press Enter to insert line breaks, use basic keyboard shortcuts (Ctrl+I, Ctrl+B, Ctrl+U), and copy and paste text—and that’s about it. There’s no support for Markdown or any other advanced feature.

If this hack sounds intriguing but you find the default version too barebones, check out this Medium article and paste the code shared there into your browser’s address bar. You’ll get a nicer-looking yet still dead-simple note-taking space you can customize to your liking. You can adjust margins, change the background, and more by tweaking the code. The downside is that this version won’t save your work either, but at least it looks much better than the original.

If you want an even more powerful browser notepad that automatically saves what you write, head over to this Reddit post and follow the instructions (the code should work fine in most browsers). In a minute or so, you’ll have your own browser notepad you can bookmark and use whenever you want to jot something down, with the added benefit of everything being saved automatically. You can edit the font size and many other elements directly in the code—just open the .htm file you created with Notepad and go wild.

While they’re as simple as possible and will never replace proper, robust note-taking apps, these browser-based notepads are neat to have. Sometimes, we just want to write something down in a hurry, and being able to open one with a single click can be handy.

Also, sometimes I just want to jot something down while working or browsing the web, use that info a few minutes later, and then simply close the page and forget about it. Not every note needs to be formatted or saved.

[mai mult...]

How to use your internet service during a power outage

  • Posted 02 March 2026
  • By Gabriel Cocos
  • 2
  • 132

Use a portable power station

A power station is effectively a giant portable battery that can output enough power to keep anything powered, from your phone and computer to a fridge and freezer. They’re looked upon as the gold standard of home backup power. Most of them have lithium-ion (Li-ion) or lithium iron phosphate (LFP) batteries inside them, and some can have their capacity expanded with additional battery packs.

These chargers commonly feature both AC and DC plug sockets plus USB power. Their capacity is typically measured in Watt-hours (Wh), where 1000Wh would theoretically keep a 1000W device running for an hour. Of course, your router will use far less power than this, likely falling somewhere in the 30W range.

Power stations are great for emergencies like power outages, as long as you store them in a (somewhat) charged state. Keeping a lithium-ion battery in storage at full charge is not recommended for long-term battery health, so limiting the charge to around 80% or less is recommended.

To use a power station as a backup for your internet connection, you’ll need to ensure that your network equipment can easily be plugged in (including a separate router or network termination device, should you have one). You’ll also need enough power outlets to keep these devices plugged in and to ensure the combined wattage of the devices you want to power doesn’t exceed the capabilities of your power station.

There are more practical things to keep in mind, like the location of your network equipment in relation to other devices you want to keep powered (like your fridge or microwave oven). Power stations are billed as portable devices, which means they often include handles or wheels, but the larger the capacity, the more they weigh. A few long extension cords might be a good idea.

A power station is arguably the most versatile solution for this task, since you can use it to power all manner of items, take it camping, bring it out on the patio to power laptops or stereo systems, or throw it in your car for power on road trips. The most important thing about relying on a power station for emergencies is remembering to charge it!

We’ve covered power stations extensively at How-To Geek, including popular models like the Anker SOLIX C1000 and the Bluetti AC200L. Check out our full list of recommended power stations as well as some things you might want to know before navigating unplanned outages and the benefits of solar power stations for extended downtime.

  • Anker SOLIX C1000 Portable Power Station
Brand Anker
Dimensions 14.8×8.07×10.5 in
Weight 28.4 lb
AC Output ports Six / 1800W Pure Sine Wave (2400W Surge)
AC Input rating 1300W
DC Output ports 120W, 12V/10A

The new Anker SOLIX C1000 is a compact yet powerful 1800W portable power station. It packs 11 different ports, 2400W AC power surge, built-in lighting, and more. Charge all your gear or be prepared for an emergency.

  • BLUETTI AC200L Portable Power Station
Brand Bluetti
Dimensions 16.5 x 11 x 14.4in
Weight 62.4lbs
AC Output ports 4 x 120V/20A & 1 x 120V/30A
AC Input rating 2,400W
DC Output ports 1 x 48VDC/8A RV & 1 x 12V/10A Car outlets

The Bluetti AC200L Portable Power Station is a worthy successor to the AC200MAX, delivering ample power through AC, DC, and USB ports. The 2,048mAh capacity battery makes the AC200L keep the essentials and outdoor supplies running for hours

Get an uninterruptible power supply

Uninterruptible power supplies, or UPS for short, are nothing new. They’ve been around for decades and are frequently relied upon in the tech world to keep computers and network equipment online during power outages. As the name implies, a UPS is designed to keep your devices running even when power is interrupted.

“Interrupted” is the key word here, since there are different types of UPS that you’ll need to choose from depending on your needs and budget. Some are designed with power dips (where power may not be lost completely) and brownouts in mind, offering a very short backup period. Others are designed for use with low-power devices (like routers and network-attached storage). Then there are the large, pricey options that are designed to keep computers running even when power is cut.

Unlike a power station, which works best as an emergency solution that you charge and forget about, a UPS typically sits in between whatever you want to keep powered and the wall. When the power goes down, the UPS takes over. How effective this is depends on what type of UPS you opt for and how much you’re prepared to spend.

Buying the right kind of UPS for your situation is important. Some are designed to give you enough time to safely finish what you’re doing without losing work, so you can shut down your computer safely. Others are designed to keep equipment running for far longer.

Many consumer UPS units use cheaper lead-acid batteries, while also being far more limited in terms of their intended use. On the upside, this makes them cheaper “set and forget” solutions that you don’t need to manage, store, or keep charged.

[mai mult...]

How to add almost any speaker to Home Assistant

  • Posted 02 March 2026
  • By Gabriel Cocos
  • 4
  • 180

Smart speakers aren’t the only speakers in your home that you can connect to Home Assistant. You should be able to connect most speakers on your home network, and even dumb speakers can be connected with a little help.

One of the most powerful features of Home Assistant is the huge number of ingrations that allow you to connect a staggering number of devices and services. Many of these integrations have been contributed by the community. There are multiple dedicated integrations that you can use to connect and control speakers.

For example, there are integrations for speakers from Sonos, Denon, Bose, Bang & Olufsen, and more. You can use these integrations to play music on these devices, with some integrations allowing for local control without the need to connect via cloud services.

There are also some more generic integrations that allow you to connect speakers that support different streaming protocols. There’s a Google Cast integration for smart speakers and Chromecast devices, and the SlimProto integration lets you control Squeezebox music players from Home Assistant.

  • Use Music Assistant

Connect using a wide range of options

Perhaps the easiest way to add almost any network-connected speaker to Home Assistant is to use the Music Assistant app (the new name for add-ons). This is a powerful music hub application that integrates with Home Assistant and allows you to unify your music streaming services and local audio files into a single music interface. You can play a playlist where one song is from Apple Music, the next from your local audio files, and the next from Spotify as if they were all from the same service.

Music Assistant also allows you to connect speakers using multiple integrations. These are called player providers and offer support for Sonos, AirPlay, Snapcast, Squeezelite, DLNA/UPnP, MusicCast, Bluesound, and more. Using the player providers, you can connect a huge array of different speakers and stream music to them directly from Music Assistant.

If you want the most seamless way to play music to different types of speakers around your home, Music Assistant is probably the best solution. You can even create synced speaker groups for whole-home audio, although the sync works best when all the speakers use the same ecosystem.

  • DLNA and AirPlay

Network streaming old and new

Many modern speakers support AirPlay, and the easiest way to add AirPlay speakers is in Music Assistant. Even if you don’t use the Music Assistant app itself for playback, adding an AirPlay speaker exposes that speaker to the rest of Home Assistant, too. There are other options, but they’re often more complicated; you can connect AirPlay speakers via Music Assistant in just a few clicks.

If you have older speakers, AirPlay may not be an option without an additional adapter. In that case, you may be able to fall back on an older network streaming protocol. DLNA/UPnP was a common standard in the early 2000s before proprietary systems such as AirPlay and Google Cast came along.

If your speaker supports DLNA, you should be able to connect it to Home Assistant, meaning you can use older equipment such as Hi-Fi systems and enjoy the high-quality sound that they can provide, rather than relying on small smart speakers. There’s a dedicated DLNA Digital Media Renderer integration you can use, or (are you spotting the pattern yet?) you can add DLNA speakers using Music Assistant, which has a dedicated DLNA/UPnP player provider. I have the old micro Hi-Fi system my dad passed on to me connected via DLNA, and it sounds stunning.

  • Connect dumb speakers

A streamer makes a dumb speaker smart

Not every speaker in your house may be able to connect to your home network, especially if you have older speakers. That doesn’t mean you can’t still connect them to Home Assistant, however.

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All you need to do is connect a small streaming device to your speakers via the available inputs, such as RCA, AUX, or optical. You can then stream audio to the streaming device, which will play through the connected speakers.

There are plenty of options for streaming devices. You can use a Raspberry Pi with a DAC HAT or buy a dedicated streaming device such as a WiiM Mini. You can build your own ESP32-based streamer, or purchase one ready-made, such as the HiFi-ESP32. You could even use an old Android phone and install a Snapcast or Squeezelite app, and stream directly to the phone.

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How to use Excel to create heat maps

  • Posted 03 February 2026
  • By Gabriel Cocos
  • 3
  • 199
The first step is to create your statistical data in its simplest form. If you’re starting with a blank worksheet, type your column and row parameters, and insert your data. If you wish, you can format your Excel table so that it’s easier to add more data later on. If you already have your completed data set, make sure it’s presented in a way that lends itself to creating a heat map in the next step (such as removing empty rows and columns in a table).
  • To generate the two sample heat maps shown above, we started with this (details of the number of bonuses each employee received each month):
  • And this (how many goals were scored from a certain location on a soccer pitch):
  • To create the soccer pitch in Excel, I inserted it as a PNG image, meaning the cells underneath the graphic remained visible. You can do the same with any image outline to create a heat map in Excel.

Apply conditional formatting

  • The next step is to apply the color scales to your data. First, select all the cells that will form the heat map. In the example below, I’ve selected all the cells on the soccer pitch, so that any data I might add later on will also be picked up by the color rules I set.
  • If you are applying the conditional formatting to cells underneath an image, you’ll need to use your arrow keys to navigate to the correct cell, as you can’t select a cell underneath a graphic using your mouse. Then, hold Shift while using your arrow keys to select the relevant cells.

  • Next, click “Conditional Formatting” in the Home tab on the ribbon, and hover over “Color Scales.” From there, you can choose the color scale that works best with how you want to display your data.
  • In my case, I’ll choose the “Green To Yellow” scale.
  • If none of the preset options pique your fancy, click “More Rules” instead. This will launch the New Formatting Rule dialog box, where you can switch to a three-color scale (rather than the default two colors), with more specific rules about how the values affect the colors to be displayed.
  • To change or remove the color scale after you have applied it, select the cells again, click “Conditional Formatting,” and select either “Manage Rules” or “Clear Rules.”

Remove visible values and gridlines (Optional)

  • The final step in optimizing your heat map involves hiding the figures and removing the gridlines, if doing so will improve your data visualization.
  • To hide the figures, select the cells to which you applied the conditional formatting in the previous step. Then, in the Home tab, click the “Number Format” icon in the bottom corner of the Number group.
  • Then, click “Custom” in the Category menu, and type ;;; (three semicolons) into the field box.
  • When you click “OK,” the numbers will disappear from the cells, though you can still see them in the formula bar when you select the relevant cells.
  • Removing the gridlines is much more straightforward. In the View tab on the ribbon, uncheck “Gridlines” in the Show group.
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How to make your router more secure: disable these 3 settings

  • Posted 03 February 2026
  • By Gabriel Cocos
  • -1
  • 225

Before you touch anything even remotely advanced, start with a few basics that are always worth doing. Whether you just bought a new router or have one you haven’t fiddled with before, check these out.

Start with the router admin login, because that’s the one people forget exists. Your Wi-Fi password controls who can join your network (and it’s still worth changing), but the admin password controls who can make any changes to it. If an attacker somehow makes it into your router’s admin panel, they can mess with important things like DNS settings, open ports, and security settings.

To change your router’s password, as well as any router-related settings, open a browser on a device connected to your home network. Then, you need to find the router settings page (which is often just 192.168.0.1, 192.168.1.1, or 10.0.0.1; otherwise, check the label on your router). Sign in with your current admin credentials, then navigate the menu to change the admin password or router login. While you’re in there, turn off remote management unless you truly use it.

Next, update the firmware. This will, again, have you checking the label on the actual device and then finding them online. Some routers have automatic updates.

  • Turn off the easy security features you don’t need

Using the same login method described above, you can now go and disable a few settings that could make your connection more secure.

The first such setting is WPS (Wi-Fi Protected Setup). It’s designed for convenience, as it lets you join the Wi-Fi network without having to type in the full password; all you need is a PIN. However, this is an unnecessary way to weaken the security of your connection, so it’s best turned off.

UPnP (Universal Plug and Play) is another setting to disable. It often comes enabled by default. UPnP lets devices on your network automatically ask the router to open ports for them, which is convenient, but also means less oversight over your network. However, if you game online and run into matchmaking issues, leave UPnP on; you might need to set up port forwarding instead. On the other hand, if you have a NAS and are planning to expose it to the internet, this is definitely one of the first settings you should be disabling.

Now, a setting that may have different names depending on your exact router: Remote management. Look for things like “Remote administration,” “web access from WAN,” etc. This lets you access your router’s admin panel from outside the home, and is something most people never use.

If you’re not hosting anything, such as a game server or a remote access tool, check your port forwarding/triggering list and remove any rules you don’t recognize or no longer need. Forwarding creates a direct path from the internet to a device inside your home, and if that device has a vulnerability, your entire network could be exposed.

Lastly, take a look at some router services and easy sharing features that you may or may not be using. If you don’t need them, turn them off. This includes USB file sharing (SMB/FTP), built-in media servers (DLNA), download managers, and personal cloud features. These features don’t just give hackers another way into your network, but they also may hurt performance. Router CPUs aren’t exactly powerhouses, so less is more.

  • Take a look at your Wi-Fi settings

Time to move on to Wi-Fi settings. Start with checking your Wi-Fi security mode, and if your devices support it, set your network to WPA3 Personal or WPA2 Personal with AES, as per CISA recommendations. Avoid legacy options like WEP, WPA, or anything that mentions TKIP, and steer clear of open networks.

Next, change your SSID, or in other words, your Wi-Fi name, and change your password too.

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Finally, something for Wi-Fi performance. If your router has separate 2.4GHz and 5GHz options, consider splitting them into two network names if devices keep connecting to the slower band; that way, you can choose some devices to prioritize over others.

You can also check channel width, because wider is not always better in busy areas, so leaving 2.4GHz at 20MHz might help if your connection isn’t stable.

  • Stop “smart” features from slowing your connection

Many routers come with lots of extra features, but chances are that you don’t need many of them. If they’re enabled by default, they could be reducing speeds or adding latency, especially on cheaper routers that don’t have the latest hardware at their disposal.

If you’re not happy with your connection (and you’re sure it’s not the ISP, as was the case for me), look into disabling the following:

  • QoS and bandwidth controls. QoS tries to prioritize certain traffic, but when misconfigured, it can seriously mess with your speeds and cap them far below what you’re paying for.
  • Router-based antivirus, content filtering, ad blocking, and deep packet inspection: All of these can be good, but they can seriously slow down your router.
  • Always-on analytics (if you don’t use them) can go, too, such as traffic monitoring or regular speed tests.
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How to run Android apps on Windows

  • Posted 08 January 2026
  • By Gabriel Cocos
  • -4
  • 232

Like most people, I started with BlueStacks, but quickly grew sick of it (like most people). Its UI is tacky, and riddled with ads and sponsored content. The second most popular option is Genymotion, which emulates an entire mobile phone, much like the emulator that ships with Android Studio. However, booting up a virtual phone just to launch a phone is hugely annoying and a waste of time. You can’t even run games on it properly.

The perfect way to run Android apps should be seamless. By ‘seamless,’ I mean that you should be able to launch it directly from the taskbar, and it should open in its own window, just like any other Windows app. Also, I should be able to install apps directly from the Play Store with a single click, just like I can from the Microsoft Store. That’s exactly what Windows Subsystem for Android (WSA) does.

If you’ve heard of Windows Subsystem for Linux (WSL), it is the same concept at work here. Like WSL, Windows Subsystem for Android is a compatibility layer that allows you to run Android apps ‘natively.’

How to set up WSA on Windows

Before proceeding with WSA, make sure virtualization is enabled on your computer. Check Hyper-V and Virtual Machine Platform features in the Windows Features list.

Start by downloading the Windows Subsystem for Android build from GitHub. The build that reads ‘MindtheGapps’ has both the Play Store and the Amazon Store. If you just want the Play Store, download the build with the flag ‘Removed Amazon’.

Microsoft officially dropped support for WSA in 2025, but the community is still keeping it alive with modified builds that you can find on GitHub. I’m using one such build on my computer. Since Microsoft is no longer developing this product, you might run into some issues when setting up WSA on newer versions of Windows. I tested it on 3 different machines, and it worked fine on 2. I had to download an older version to make it work on the third Windows computer. It was build 2210, to be specific.

Extract the archive and open the extracted folder. Scroll through the files and look for ‘install.ps1.’ Right-click on this file and click ‘Run with PowerShell’.

How to install apps with WSA

On the first launch, two windows should appear: one should be the Settings app for the emulated device and one should be the WSA interface. The WSA interface has tabs for ‘System,’ ‘Apps,’ and ‘Advanced Settings’.

The System tab has a shortcut for launching the file manager, so that’s where you’ll find your documents, downloads, and other files. The Apps section houses all your downloaded apps, as well as the Play Store and the Amazon Appstore. You can tweak performance settings in the Advanced Settings tab. You can also enable Developer Options here.

To install a new app, go to the Apps section and click the three dots next to ‘Play Store’ and click ‘Open.’ You’ll be asked to sign in with your Google account. Once you do that, the Play Store should load normally, and you should be able to install and update apps with one tap.

You can also sideload apps using APK files, but the method is more involved. You’ll need to enable Developer Options under Advanced Settings. As soon as you toggle it on, you should see an IP address where you can connect using ADB. Then simply use ADB in a shell to connect to that IP address and push the APK file.

How to run and manage apps with WSA

Running installed apps is simple. You can either launch it directly from the Play Store page or find it in the Apps section of the WSA interface. They’ll also be available in the Start menu and the Windows app list. Click the three dots and wait for the app to launch in a separate window with its own icon on the taskbar. You can then close or minimize or maximize the app. Or, you can pin it to the taskbar by right-clicking on the icon.

It works just like any regular Windows app. You can use your mouse to point, click, and drag and use your keyboard for input control.

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To remove an app, click the three dots next to its name and click ‘App Settings.’ It should open another window where you can change the app’s permissions, manage its storage, or remove it entirely.

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How to access your Home Assistant files via network share

  • Posted 08 January 2026
  • By Gabriel Cocos
  • -2
  • 100
It’s easy to expose your Home Assistant server’s contents via network share using the Samba share add-on. This applies to the vast majority of Home Assistant users who are running Home Assistant OS, either on a dedicated devices like a Raspberry Pi or Home Assistant Green, or in a virtual machine like ProxMox or VirtualBox.

The exception here is anyone who is running Home Assistant in a Docker container, since Home Assistant’s add-ons are effectively containers themselves. If you’ve gone that route, you will need to expose the files manually on your server as you would any other directory. This guide won’t be covering that.

Just in case you’re not sure, you can check what installation method you’ve used by opening your Home Assistant instance in a browser and navigating to Settings > About.

To install the add-on, head to Settings > Add-ons and click “Add-on store” at the bottom of the page. Now search for “samba” and click on the “Samba share” add-on. Hit “Install” and then head to the “Configuration” tab at the top of the screen.

Here you can define a few basic login credentials, like the username and password you’ll use to gain access. You can tweak other settings here, but most of the basic settings can be left as-is. You can manually add any folders you specifically want access to here. You might also want to enable the “Enable Compatibility Settings for Apple Devices” toggle if you’re coming from a Mac.

Click “Save,” and you’ll be invited to restart the add-on, which is necessary for your configuration to be actioned. You’re now done. Access your Home Assistant server using a Windows, Mac, or Linux computer as you would any other share by using a file explorer, navigating to the “Network” browser, and selecting the “homeassistant” host (or whatever it is you decided to call it).

Exposing your backups folder

The main reason I installed the Samba share add-on was to easily expose my backups folder. I did this because I wanted a way of uploading my Home Assistant shares to iCloud (you could use OneDrive, Google Drive, and others) so that I had some cloud-based redundancy if the whole operation went kaput.

This was necessary for me because my Home Assistant server runs in a VirtualBox virtual machine, and it’s an easy way to access the drive on the Mac mini powering my server. I wrote an Automator script that copies the contents of the backups folder to iCloud Drive (by triggering the script every day using an Apple Calendar event).

You could get more creative and devise scripts to copy it elsewhere, or use an app like Syncthing to achieve a similar outcome. Just remember that the share needs to be mounted on the machine that’s responsible for this task.

Editing files like configuration.yaml and others

The configuration.yaml file might be the only file you ever find yourself manually editing on your Home Assistant server. It’s used primarily to call integrations that haven’t been integrated into the core Home Assistant UI, like those you might find on the Home Assistant Community Store. You can also use the file to make changes to the way Home Assistant works, like adding items to your sidebar menu.

On top of this, there are other files in the config folder you might want to make changes to, like scripts.yaml and scenes.yaml if you prefer writing YAML code to using Home Assistant’s UI.

Either way, while you can absolutely use the File editor add-on (installable via the add-on store) for this, it’s not as quick as finding the necessary file in your file explorer and opening it up with Notepad, TextEdit, or your favorite text editor.

Adding and removing media

Another sharepoint you’ll get access to with the Samba share add-on is the media folder. While you probably don’t want to store your entire music or video collection within your Home Assistant directory (we’d recommend something like the open-source media streamer Jellyfin instead); there are some reasons you might want to copy media.

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For example, if you’re setting up a poor man’s custom alarm system, you might want to transfer a suitable siren or alarm noise to play via your smart speakers. You might also want to add a range of notification sounds to your server that trigger when certain events happen, like a garage door opening or a camera identifying a package.

Whatever your reason, there’s no easier way than simply dragging a few MP3 or WAV files into the media server and calling it a day.

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