Soluții

How to block USB Devices on Windows 11

If you want to disable all the USB ports so no USB devices can work with your system, use the Device Manager utility. Note that this method even turns off any USB-enabled mice or keyboards. Just keep in mind that this could be a problem if you don’t have an alternative way to control your PC set up in advance.

  • To start, launch Windows Search (press Windows+S), type Device Manager, and open the utility. Expand the “Universal Serial Bus Controllers” section, right-click a USB port on the list, and choose “Disable Device”.
  • Select “Yes” in the prompt. If you don’t find the “Disable Device” option for a USB port, you’ll have to disable that port using BIOS as explained below in this guide.
  • Repeat the above step until you’ve disabled all the ports on the list.

From now on, when you connect a device to any USB port on your machine, your system won’t connect with that device. In the future, you can re-enable your USB ports by opening Device Manager, expanding “Universal Serials Bus Controllers,” right-clicking each port on the list, and choosing “Enable Device”.

Block USB Storage Devices from PowerShell

If you like command-line methods, you can use a cmdlet in PowerShell to block all USB storage devices on your PC. Note that other devices like keyboards and mice will still continue to work.

  • To start, open Windows Search (press Windows+S), type PowerShell, and choose “Run as Administrator”. Select “Yes” in the User Account Control prompt.
  • On the PowerShell window, type the following cmdlet and press Enter. This cmdlet changes a value in the Windows registry to prevent USB storage devices from working with your machine.
Set-ItemProperty -Path "HKLM:\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\USBSTOR" -Name "Start" -Value 4
  • After executing the cmdlet, restart your Windows 11 PC to bring the changes into effect.
  • In the future, you can re-enable USB storage devices on your PC by running the following command in PowerShell.
Set-ItemProperty -Path "HKLM:\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\USBSTOR" -Name "Start" -Value 3

Don’t forget to restart your computer after executing the command. If you’re running Windows 11’s Pro edition, you can use the Local Group Policy Editor tool to block USB storage devices. Note that this tool isn’t available in Windows 11’s Home edition.

  • To use it, launch the Run dialog box by pressing Windows+R, Type the following in the box and select “OK” or press Enter:
gpedit.msc
  • On the Local Group Policy Editor window, using the options on the left, navigate to the following path. On the right pane, double-click the item that says “All Removable Storage Classes: Deny All Access.”
Computer Configuration > Administrative Templates > System > Removable Storage Access
  • On the open window, at the top, select the “Enabled” option. Then, at the bottom, choose “Apply” followed by “OK.”

Close Local Group Policy Editor and restart your PC.

In the future, to unblock USB storage devices, double-click the “All Removable Storage Classes: Deny All Access” entry, choose “Not Configured,” and select “Apply” followed by “OK”. Make sure to then reboot your computer.

You can tweak a value in the Windows registry to disable and enable USB storage devices. This method works on both Pro and Home editions of Windows 11. Making accidental changes in the Windows registry can cause your system to be unstable. Therefore, back up the registry before making any changes and follow the instructions carefully.

  • To begin, launch Run by pressing Windows+R. Type the following in the box and select “OK” or press Enter:
regedit
  • Select “Yes” in the User Account Control prompt.
  • In Registry Editor, navigate to the following path:
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\USBSTOR

On the right pane, double-click the item that says “Start.” In the open window, click the “Value Data” field and type 4. Then, select “OK”. The value of 4 tells Windows not to acknowledge any USB storage devices.

  • Close Registry Editor and restart your PC to bring the changes into effect.
  • To reverse your change and unblock USB storage devices in the future, navigate to the above path in Registry Editor, double-click the “Start” entry, type 3 in the “Value Data” field, select “OK,” and restart your PC.
  • If you don’t see the option to disable USB ports in Device Manager, use your PC’s BIOS settings menu to turn off those ports. To do that, launch Settings, select System > Recovery, click “Restart Now” next to Advanced Startup, and choose “Restart Now” in the prompt.
  • On the Choose an Option page, select Troubleshoot > Advanced Options > UEFI Firmware Settings and click “Restart”. Each BIOS menu is different, but you’ll find an option labeled as USB or similar. On my Asus laptop, I’ll head into the “Advanced” tab, choose “USB Configuration” and then disable the ports.

When you want to re-use the ports, you’ll have to enable them from BIOS (since you disabled them from BIOS).

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How to enable and use File Compression on NTFS Drives in Windows 11

NTFS compression is a feature that compresses (reduces the size of) your files. It uses certain algorithms to make your files smaller without affecting their data. Unlike other methods, this method doesn’t make an archive or anything from your files; your files remain as they are.

This compression method only works on the drives formatted in the NTFS file system. It doesn’t work for the drives that use the FAT32 or exFAT file system. You can format your drive in the NTFS format to make it compatible with this feature. If you want to change your drive to use NTFS without deleting any data, open Windows Search (press Windows+S), type Command Prompt, select “Run as Administrator,” and choose “Yes” in the prompt. Then, run the following command replacing “X” with the letter of your drive.

convert X: /fs:ntfs

You should use NTFS compression for files that can be efficiently compressed, such as text files, documents, databases, and so on. You should also only use it for infrequently accessed files, as if you access a file often, the system needs to decompress it before you can view it.

You should not use this compression for media or system files, as this can affect your system performance. This is because the files need to be decompressed each time you view them.

Compress an Individual File or Folder

To enable NTFS compression for a single file or folder, you have both graphical and command-line options, as explained below.

Using File Explorer

File Explorer offers the easiest graphical way to turn on NTFS compression for your files and folders. To use it, launch a File Explorer window (press Windows+E) and find the file or folder you want to compress.

  • Right-click that file or folder and choose “Properties.” Access the “General” tab. In the Attributes section, click the “Advanced” button
  • On the Advanced Attributes window, enable “Compress Contents to Save Disk Space.” Then, click “OK”
  • On the Properties window, click “Apply” followed by “OK.” If you’re compressing a folder (not a file), you’ll see a prompt with two options:
  • Apply Changes to This Folder Only: Choose this option to only compress the selected folder and not its subfolders and their files
  • Apply Changes to This Folder, Subfolders and Files: Select this option to apply compression to all the subfolders and their files as well
  • Then, choose “OK”.

Once your files and folders are compressed, you’ll see a blue icon on them. To disable compression in the future, right-click your file or folder and choose “Properties”. Open the “General” tab, click the “Advanced” button, turn off “Compress Contents to Save Disk Space,” choose “OK,” and select “Apply” followed by “OK”.

From Command Prompt

If you like running commands, use a command in Command Prompt to turn on NTFS compression for your files or folders. To do it, open Windows Search (press Windows+S), type Command Prompt, and select “Run as Administrator.” Choose “Yes” in the User Account Control prompt.

On the Command Prompt window, type the following command. Replace “PATH” with the full path to the file or the folder you want to compress. Then, press Enter. Whether your file or folder path has spaces or not, keep the path enclosed in double quotes to avoid running into any issues. The command below already uses double quotes for paths.

compact /c "PATH"

The “c” parameter in this command tells the command to compress the specified file or folder. In the future, you can decompress your file or folder using the following command. Replace “PATH” with the full path to the file or the folder you want to decompress.

compact /u "PATH"

You can compress an entire drive (including all its folders and files) using NTFS compression. You can use File Explorer or Command Prompt to do that, as shown below.

Using File Explorer

Open File Explorer (press Windows+E), right-click the drive you want to compress, and select “Properties.” Open the “General” tab and turn on “Compress This Drive to Save Disk Space.” Then, choose “Apply” followed by “OK”.

In the prompt that opens, choose “Apply Changes to Drive X:\, Subfolders and Files” to enable compression for all the subfolders and files on the drive. Or, choose the “Apply Changes to Drive X:\” option. (X is your drive’s letter)

Then, click “OK.”

To turn off compression in the future, right-click the compressed drive and choose “Properties.” Access the “General” tab and disable “Compress This Drive to Save Disk Space.” Then, choose “Apply” followed by “OK”.

From Command Prompt

  • Launch Windows Search (press Windows+S), type Command Prompt, and select “Run as Administrator.” In the User Account Control prompt, select “Yes”.
  • In Command Prompt, type the following command. Replace “X” with the letter of the drive you want to compress. Then, press Enter. This command compresses all the subfolders and files on the drive.
compact /c /s /a "X:\"
  • The “c” parameter tells the command to compress the specified drive. The “s” parameter ensures that all the subdirectories are included. The “a” parameter makes sure the hidden and system files are included as well.
  • In the future, you can decompress the drive by running the following command. Make sure to replace “X” with your drive’s letter.
compact /u /s "X:\"

The “u” parameter tells the command to decompress the specified drive. The “s” parameter ensures all the subdirectories are decompressed as well.

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How I use the Microsoft to do App to maximize my Productivity

The Microsoft To Do application, sometimes abbreviated informally but widely known as To Do, provides a central hub for arranging personal or professional tasks. An intuitive layout greets you with options for creating lists, setting reminders, scheduling tasks for later, and dividing projects into more digestible parts.

My personal preference involves pairing it with Outlook, which synchronizes tasks across devices and ensures that no important duty slips through the cracks. Many users favor its simple layout, reminiscent of handwritten to-do lists, though it’s backed by powerful cloud synchronization, which I’ll go into later.

To access To Do, go to the Windows search bar (or press Windows+S) and search for To Do. Press Enter to open the app. If you are prompted, log in to your Microsoft account.

Microsoft To-Do app open on first page, showing empty "My Day" to do list.

Setting up the To Do app requires a Microsoft account . You can use your existing credentials from Outlook. Microsoft To Do appears to be a simple tool at first glance, and it is really intuitive with its simple design. However, there are tons of features available.

The “My Day” feature stands out for its focus on daily intentions. A fresh screen greets you each morning, helping you to identify priorities for that specific day. To me, this is important since it clarifies what needs to be done to help tick things off and maintain consistent progress.

You can also set a due date or reminder by typing what needs to be done and by when, and the program will handle it for you. As someone who forgets things constantly, having timed alerts and notifications makes sure I never miss an appointment or deadline.

One aspect of staying motivated includes the psychological trick of self-imposed deadlines. Setting an arbitrary (but realistic) completion date for certain tasks gives you a mild sense of urgency without being too stressful (at least for me, anyway).

Microsoft To-Do "My Day" list showing all tasks that need to be done.

You can click on the star icon next to the task to mark it as important, and also sort the tasks by importance, due date, alphabetically, or by creation date:

Microsoft To-Do app open and highlighted area where you can sort tasks.

Well, you may not have to change it completely. To Do integrates with other Microsoft services like Planner and Outlook, which keeps it all in sync across different platforms. Those comfortable with a pen-and-paper approach to scheduling might prefer the app’s minimal design. But you can also explore color-coded categories, collaborative sharing, and customized settings to have a more tailored experience, without it getting overwhelming.

Some people like to keep everything in a single master list, though I find separate categories more practical. I prefer starting with broad categories, such as “Work,” “Personal,” “Learning,” or “Household.” Each category sits in its own list, easily accessible from the left-hand panel as shown below:

You can also drag any of the tasks from “My Day” to any other list (don’t worry, it will still remain in the “My Day” section, since it just gets copied).

Microsoft To-Do app open highlighting the different categories for different lists, and one being dragged.

My “Work” list usually splits further into separate tasks when tasks have multiple steps involved. Subtasks inside each task item break down broader assignments into discrete, bite-sized chunks. This approach transforms intimidating objectives into sequences of manageable steps:

Microsoft To-Do app open highlighting sub tasks added to a main task.

You can also upload any supporting files to help get that task done. Just click “Add file” in the task window. Another trick involves reorganizing my tasks as situations evolve. Sometimes an unexpectedly large assignment arrives in my inbox, derailing the original plan for the day. I open Microsoft To Do, drag the new item into the correct list, and assign the new deadlines accordingly. That approach avoids confusion since I’m not scribbling on sticky notes or burying tasks in email threads.

The app becomes sort of a centralized command center for all professional and personal responsibilities. My calendar remains a separate space for meetings and time-based events, while Microsoft To Do covers the domain of tasks and reminders. Both function together, each with a distinct purpose.

Recently, I had to plan a birthday for a family friend and I ended up using Microsoft To Do to create a list. The list helped us all stay organized and get everything done without overcrowding the group chats. To share a list, go to the list and click on the person icon on the left-hand side of the screen. From here, you can create invitation links to other Microsoft users. You can do the same for any type of list (such as a grocery list) as shown below:

Numbered arrows pointing to how to share a list with others on Microsoft To-Do app.
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Stop iPad screen from automatically dimming

If you’ve ever been reading, following instructions, or watching video on your iPad only to have the screen dim at the most inconvenient moment, you’re not alone. Automatic dimming helps preserve battery life, but it can be frustrating when you need your screen to stay bright and active. Fortunately, you can prevent your iPad screen from dimming automatically, and all it involves is a change in settings.

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How to archive items manually – Outlook

In Outlook: Click File > Info > Tools > Clean up old items
Clean up old items

Tip: Archive and AutoArchive might not be available if your mail profile connects to an Exchange Server. It’s also possible that your organization has a mail retention policy that overrides AutoArchive. Check with your system administrator for more information.

  1. Click the Archive this folder and all subfolders option, and choose the folder you want to archive.
  2. Under Archive items older than, enter a date.

Archive dialog box

  1. You can create multiple .pst files if you want to archive some folders using different settings. For example, you may want to keep items in your Sent folder longer than items in your Inbox folder.
  2. Check the Include items with “Do not AutoArchive” checked box to archive individual items that are excluded from automatic archiving. This option doesn’t remove that exclusion from these items, but instead ignores the Do not AutoArchive setting for this archive only.
  3. Click OK.
To archive only when you want, turn off AutoArchive.

  1. Click File > Options > Advanced
  2. Under AutoArchive, click AutoArchive Settings
  3. Uncheck the Run AutoArchive every n days box.
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Raspberry Pi 5 16GB

So much power, and now with the RAM to back it up, but the price makes this a considered purchase for all but the most die-hard fans.

You may have just glanced over the price, so let’s make this clear. Yes, this is a Raspberry Pi 5 with 16GB of RAM for $120 (£115). That is $40 more than the 8GB model. There is no other difference between the models. We get the same CPU and we can use the same peripherals and accessories.

The Raspberry Pi 5 16GB is exactly the same as previous models of Pi 5. The same accessories and cases will work, and you can still overclock the CPU to get a free boost of speed. The only difference, from a user perspective, between the Raspberry Pi 5’s is the amount of RAM. In fact, you can spot the difference between lower specced Raspberry Pi 5s quite easily. Raspberry Pi has chosen to highlight the fact in the silkscreen. The “table” previously used to identify the RAM is gone, but the resistor used to identify is still present.

Under the hood though, the Raspberry Pi 5 16GB uses the same, lower-cost, D0 stepping as the Raspberry Pi 5 2GB, and this means that the 2 and 16GB models have more in common than the earlier models. The D0 stepping (BCM2712D0) removed “all the non-Raspberry Pi specific logic from the chip” according to Raspberry Pi co-founder Eben Upton, while leaving it functionally identical to the previous.

To really see what the difference is, you would need to de-lid the chip.The “dark silicon” is essentially the unused part of the chip, and the removal of non-Raspberry Pi specific logic means that there is a 33% reduction in die space. What was taken out? On the Raspberry Pi 2GB it was the Ethernet and USB logic, with both features being moved to the RP1 “Southbridge” chip.

If you have already invested in Raspberry Pi 5 AI HATs, NVMe storage, cases and cooling, then you can easily use them with the Raspberry Pi 5 16GB. The GPIO pinout, port locations and chip locations are all the same, and compatible with your add-ons.

More RAM is always better. Your machine has more space to swap data with the CPU, and you can run more applications, or heavier applications without bottlenecks. A 16GB Raspberry Pi 5, with its quad-core 2.4GHz CPU means that we have a true Raspberry Pi desktop. Throw in an NVMe drive and perhaps a little overclock, and your Raspberry Pi 5 16GB would be a viable desktop alternative.

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