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How to Mute Mail Threads on iPhone, iPad, and Mac

iOS 13 Mail app Share Sheet with Mute button

There’s no way to leave email conversations if someone accidentally hits the “Reply All” button. What you can do is mute the conversation on your end to disable notifications. Here’s how to mute threads on your iPhone, iPad, or Mac using the Mail app.

How to Mute Mail Threads on iPhone and iPad

To mute a thread on an iPhone or iPad, you need to be running iOS 13 or iPadOS 13 and higher.

There are two ways to do this. The first works without even opening the email. You can also mute a message from the reply menu.

If you’re in the Inbox, swipe left on an email and select the “More” option.

Swipe left and tap on the More button

From the popup, tap on the “Mute” button.

Tap on the Mute button

The email will now have a small “Bell” icon to tell you that the thread has been muted.

Check the Mute symbol on muted threads

If the email is already open, tap on the “Reply” button from the bottom-right corner.

Tap on the Reply button

Then, scroll down a bit until you see the “Mute” option. Tap on the button to mute the thread.

Tap on the Mute button from the Share sheet

If you want to unmute the thread later on, follow the same process, and tap on the “Unmute” option.

Tap on the Unmute button from the Share sheet

How to Mute Mail Threads on Mac

Open the Mail app on your Mac that’s running macOS Catalina. Next, select an email or multiple emails. From the top toolbar, locate the “Bell” icon and click on it.

Click on Mute button to mute the thread

The icon will change to a bell icon with a dash across it. This means that the conversation has been muted.

You can also mute a conversation by right-clicking on an email from the list view and selecting the “Mute” option.

Click on Mute from the menu

To unmute a thread, click on the “mute” button from the toolbar again.

Click on the Unmute button to unmute the thread

This is just one of the new features in iOS 13. Take a look at our best new features list for iOS 13, and once you update, make sure to try the new Dark mode.

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How to Install a Smart Lock

A Schlage Encode satin style smartlock installed on a green door.

When you’re setting up a new smarthome, one of the easiest gadgets you can add to your arsenal is a smart lock. It’s not much harder than changing a standard lock on your home. Here’s what to do.

The Basics

For this guide, we’re installing a Schlage Encode smart lock. Even if you have a different smart lock from another brand, most (if not all) the steps will be the same. You’ll generally find three main components in a smart lock: an exterior piece that may have a keypad, lock for a key, or both, an interior piece that holds the batteries and circuitry, and the bolt that secures your door. The tricky part is connecting them all.

As a quick tip: You may have seen advice to test your smart lock before installing it by inserting the batteries to turn it on. Then you can be sure the lock powers up before it’s in the door.

That seems like sound advice, but the first time a smart lock turns on, it tests if the door is left facing or right facing and adjusts the bolt mechanism to match. Without an actual door to test against, it may guess wrong, and your install will fail to work correctly. If you want to perform this test, you should check the instructions for a factory reset process. After running the test, factory-reset the lock.

Removing the Old Lock

Before you can install your new smart lock, you need to take the old one out. Standard locks are easy to remove, so long as you have access to the interior of your home anyway. Start with finding the two screws on the interior thumb turn piece. Then unscrew them.

A standard thumbturn on a lock,with two red arrows pointing to two screws.

Open the door (if you haven’t already) and go to the front side of the lock (where you insert your key). The key assembly should be loose, pull that off.

The key assembly of a lock, slightly tilted out of the door.

Now on the side of your door, look for the bolt that slides out when you lock it. Unscrew the two screws and pull the bolt assembly out.

Installing Your Smart Lock

Now find the bolt for your new lock, and look for the top mark:

Slide the bolt into your door frame, and make sure to keep the “top” face up. Look in the door hole to see if the bolt interior centers with your door well. You’ll notice three holes in the assembly—those should be as close to the center as possible. If they aren’t, you can either lengthen or shorten the bolt (depending on the current length) to center it. Usually, you do that by twisting the bolt mechanism, but you may also have to use a screwdriver instead. Then, install the two screws to lock the bolt in place.

A lock cavity with a bolt in it, and lines crossing through the vertical and horizontal center.

Next, find the outdoor assembly piece to the lock. Pay attention to the long thing bar and the electronic wire.

A Schlage Encode assembly with a red box around a wire assembly and bar.

Insert the assembly to your door. As you do so, thread the thing bar through the middle hole of the bolt assembly. It should be the only hole the bar fits through. Carefully side the wiring beneath the bolt hardware. You want to make sure hardware won’t pitch the wiring.

The door lock hole interior, showing the wiring running beneath the bolt assembly.

If your smart lock assembly seems prone to falling out of the door at this point, we’ll be securing it in later steps. This is particularly common with tall keypads. You might consider using double-sided sticky tape to hold it in place until you can fully secure the lock.

Some smart locks include a steel or plastic plate that goes against the interior of the door. Grab that, and run the wire from the front assembly through it. Then find the two long screws and run them through the two other holds the bolt assembly to the front assembly. This will lock everything in place.

With some locks, you’ll attach the interior assembly with the two long screws without the metal plate.

A metal plate with two screws and a power wire sticking through it.

Connect the wire from the outdoor piece to the interior assembly. Usually, the interior piece contains channels to run the wiring through and prevent pinching.

An interior lock piece wired to the rest of the lock.

Once you have the wire connected, place the interior lock on the door, and secure it with screws.

A close up of a Schlage Encode lock, showing stabilizing screws.

Now all that’s left to do is insert your batteries. The first time your lock turns on, it will test which way the door faces. It’s normal for it to lock and unlock several times as part of that process. Once it finishes, you can start pairing your app and setting up PINs if you have a keypad.

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Windows Cannot Install Required Files 0x8007025D

Windows 10 has come with many perks but has been one of the hardest systems to update to owing to the numerous errors consumers encounter during installation. One of them is error 0x8007025D that appears and halts installation after a certain percentage. Retrying will only give you the same error. Several people who have sought answers from online indicated that they were running a clean install from their USB drive.

This page is going to explain to you why error 0x8007025D appears. The error might be brought by several issues, but they are all related to the USB buffering system. After a brief explanation of what the error means we will the give you the steps to resolve this error.

What is Error 0x8007025D?

According to windows support, 0x8007025D = ERROR_BAD_COMPRESSION_BUFFER = the specified buffer contains ill-formed data. USB 3.0 uses the Message Signaled Interrupt (MSI) mode for communications with the system. USB 2.0 uses the much older Interrupt Request (IRQ) system. One feature of the new MSI system that USB 3.0 devices use is asynchronous handling of data transfer between the device and system. This requires a buffer through which data is streamed to at high data rates (“SuperSpeed”), which is then decoded by the system. If you receive error 0x8007025D then probably your PNY devices are sending bad or corrupted data to the buffers, your device’s buffers are choked or your device can’t decode the data properly. Here are the reasons why you might be receiving this error.

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Numele DNS nu există în Windows 10

Multe persoane din întreaga lume accesează internetul. Putem avea acces la acest sistem global de aproape oriunde pe planetă și chiar dincolo. Putem contacta chiar astronauții de la Stația Spațială Internațională prin intermediul internetului.

De asemenea, multe activități zilnice depind de internet. Deci, conexiunea ar trebui să funcționeze fără probleme. Totuși, acest lucru nu este întotdeauna cazul, iar utilizatorii din întreaga lume se confruntă cu probleme de conexiune.

Multe persoane s-au întâlnit cu „Numele DNS nu există. Cod de eroare: INET_E_RESOURCE_NOT_FOUND ”mesaj de eroare în Windows 10. De menționat că această eroare a apărut pe Microsoft Edge și nu pe alte browsere. Aceasta este o problemă majoră care blochează accesul la internet și astăzi vă vom arăta ce să faceți pentru a remedia problema.

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Cum sa folosim un HDMI Switcher

O interfață multimedia de înaltă definiție sau comutatorul HDMI, este un dispozitiv pe care îl puteți utiliza pentru conectarea mai multor dispozitive HDMI de înaltă definiție la o singură intrare HDMI. Acest lucru este util dacă aveți una sau două intrări pe televizor sau receptor, dar aveți mai multe dispozitive pe care doriți să le conectați, cum ar fi PlayStation 3, Xbox 360 și un player DVD de înaltă definiție. Comutatoarele sunt disponibile cu o varietate de intrări, de la două, la opt. Asigurați-vă că veti cumpăra unul care are suficient pentru toate componentele.

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